PORTRAITS OF WINE BAR OWNERS
Thierry Cayla, owner of the Rez
de Chaussée
Who knows why, but where wine
is concerned, what counts for Thierry Cayla is the compass point leading
to the South. For him, only wines bursting with sunshine, with a deep
colour and robe, a strong tannin structure and very fruity flavour
will do. So, a selection of wines originating mainly from the South
and South-West is available on the rez-de-chaussée wine list,
from Cahors to Bergerac, from Irouleguy to Vacqueyras.
The list
is constantly renewed, sourced from a turnover of friends who grow
wine, providing about fifteen red wines as well as a handfulof white
wines.
The selection of wines is generally developed
according to the favourites of the moment of Thierry and Pascal
Caron. Their criteria for selection are: either very typical wines
or others that are total "UFOs",
that is, wines that do not correspond to any model or pattern.
The choices of the rez-de-chaussée are not dictated by any
intellectual reasons, or great theories on fullness or astringency,
but simply a sensuous approach that allows their particular taste
to be their guide. A selection of wines from the South with moderate
prices, some almost feminine wines such as Saint Chinian or Corbières,
some more muscular wines, as well as wines with a mineral character
such as Madiran. Only two fixtures cannot be budged from the wine
list: the Marcillac and the Faugères. You can drink these
all year long.
Four types of white wine and four of red
wine that can be ordered by the glass.

And behind the wine, there are people. Thus,
beyond the colour of the wine, it is probably that complicity between wine growing
Southerners and between those who speak the same langue d'oc (the
dialect of the South) which drives Thierry Cayla, good native
of the left bank of the Lot River that he is, to give preference
to his friends. And it is not unusual for wine growers to pay him
a visit just so that he can taste their latest nectar.
When you have lived in the Aveyron, you often
have a strong attachment to nature. In general, people don't like
to seeing nature spoilt. As a good native from Rouergue, Thierry
is no exception to the rule; being
close to nature is for him a sort of philosophy of life. For example,
every week he takes his vegetable peelings to the Jardin du Ruisseau,
a garden shared by people from his neighbourhood, to be added
to the compost heap.
Similarly, the team at the rez-de-chaussée
goes for products cultivated and grown in respect of the earth.
And this applies to both solid and liquid food. Indeed, Thierry
and Pascal select wines produced by wine growers who respect their
vineyards and who employ the methods of their ancestors, such as
Thierry's grandfather.
Of course, it is no more than a drop of wine
... when one imagines the tons of chemical products that French
vineyards haved ingested over the last thirty years. Nevertheless,
the example of the rez-de-chaussée
deserves reflection.
Thus, most of the wines on offer in the rez-de-chaussée
are grown using biodynamics, often the produce of organic agriculture.
In such cases, what is important is not the percentage of alcohol,
nor the type of barrel, but rather the taste, the lightness, the
respect of nature and its rhythms; wines fermented with local yeasts,
vines harvested according to the moon and grown without weed-killers.
The percentage of alcohol may be lower, the liquid a little more
cloudy perhaps, but these are fruitier and younger nectars.
But choosing the organic route is not always
simple. For example, keeping organic wines can sometimes throw
up surprises, such as when an organic wine has a second "maleolactic"*
fermentation, after six months. However, Thierry and Pascal are
on the alert, and know how to detect sulphured wines.
* Lactic bacteria which can be found on berries turn malic acid
into lactic acid, which softens wine and restabilizes its acidity. |